Roopkund: THE SKULL LAKE
- kapiljourno
- Apr 19, 2018
- 7 min read
Updated: Apr 20, 2018
#blogging #roopkung #uttrakhand #himalayas #tourism #mysteriousroopkund #skeletonsatroopkund #incredibleindia
There is something mystical & mysterious about Roopkund - a lake that contains skeletons from times immemorial. No one touches them - none knows how the lake has so many skulls and bones. All we hear is local folk lores - but sill to reach Roopkund can take your breath away.
It was 5 am. Early morning hours in Shivalik mountains looks very very different. As you get up you see snow clad mountains, mighty Mandakini flowing flawlessly, your breathes can be seen as the temperature freezes them too..... all you need is a hot really hot tea here. I think God listens here too fast just because Uttarakhand is a Devbhoomi. To my surprise I found that Tony was in the kitchen already of Anasuya guest house where we stayed just for some hours as we reached Dewaal very late in the night. The old aunty - Suraj Devi - the owner of the guest house was kind enough to allow Tony to use her kitchen and also provide milk for the tea. Before, we could plan our tracking route - Tony was ready with Ginger, Cinnamon tea.......
So the Roopkund Bum Lahiri Expedition Team was ready - 9 players from different games were sipping their cup of tea and now some serious discussions were ON. It is advisable that Roopkund track must be finished in 6 to 7 days depending upon the low breathing pressure, steep heights, hallucinations of the climbers and fatigue. So, while the boys were busy talking the tracking mode - I enjoyed a fox running up the hills and looking for some food and a lot of cows were out in the grazing grounds, so everyone was BUSY now.... time to move on.
National Basketball Player Nitin Kahera was our tour guide since he is an expert 'PAHARI' - and also a great player of basketball. Along with him was Tony - cricketer & basketball player, Mayank, Mukul, Rohit & Atul were also state players. Why am I telling you this just because when it comes to Roopkund wrecking - fitness comes down on its knees.
Roopkund treck has always fascinated people who want to explore The Himalayas. Roopkund is situated near Trishul Parbhat and is nearly 5200 meters high above sea level. This lake came into light in 1942 when Nanda Devi Game Reserve's Ranger Mr Madwal reported huge collection of bones near the lake. First the British thought that these bones might belong to the Japanese soldiers who might enter India through this route but research showed that these bones belonged to 19th century. Folklores tell us that there was a king Yash Dhawal who along with his wife and soldiers was on a pilgrimage. But suddenly hell broke loose and there was a hail storm. The hail were made of iron - and none of them lived to tel that horror tale. But still bones and skulls keep coming out of the lake - and this makes it more n more mysterious.
In between the expedition team under Nitin Kahera left Dewaal and reached Loharganjpass - It was a 30 km drive but roads in this Shivalik region are bone breaking though throughout the Shivaliks the Border Roads Organisation really maintain good roads. Now from Loharganjpass we left for last motorable destinaton Vaan. Now, Nitin worked on the logistics on a war footing because after Vaan - human help can only be expected at Bedini Bugyal which is a 12 km steep treck.
After packing some logistics - Tents, food, sticks, torches, medicines - the team left for Bedini Bugyal. Initially, the track was not at all steep - everyone was enjoying the beauty of the Shivaliks. After nearly 5 kms the team halted near a river. The beauty of the river can be easily compared with Mandakini. The legs got some rest and the water of the clean river gave the much desired boost into the system. But the fairly tale ends here only...
Nitin knew that they are running against so many odds - time, altitude sickness, fatigue, breath loses are just around the corner. After 5 km track there was a sudden steep climb. And just after 200 meters the team showed first signs of breaking up.... Breathing became heavy - some members were trying to catch up but oxygen levels were going down. Just three or four steps ahead and everyone was finding a place to sit down. The lungs were drying up - the heart rate was moving up... no one knew how to tackle this.... All fit players were now down on their knees - asking the NATURE for help... and nature was giving them much desired breaths even when oxygen levels were down.
A member Piyush GAVE UP - he was not ready to move an inch. He was shaken to the core - extremely tired and fighting for breath - he was the first to STOP. But the guide Nitin Kahera was not going to give up so easily - he inspired him to move on. So it was decided that everyone in the team will stick together. The next stop was Gairoli Patal that was still 4 kms away and going was getting tougher by each step. But after some inspiration the team reached Gairoli within 2 hours. And what they saw lifted their spirits - they saw a CHAI SHOP. Nothing in the world can match a burning stove, masala chai and himalayan winds.
As the tea ran into their veins - some chill was converted into warmth and the Boys were up for another round of tracking till Bedini but after one more cup of tea.
The team was on TRACK now - the snow from Trishul Parbhat could be seen flying in the sky. The chill in the air was increasing with every step taken. The tea which provided the warmth did not last long and the veins started to jam again. This height is meant to reach the heavens only. Now Mayank, Piyush, Atul, Mukul gave up - only Nitin Kahera was inspired enough to go ahead but now he has to wait till the boys come back on the track again. Slowly on a snails pace they were moving - every 10 steps and the team was down. With No breathes, extreme fatigue - hallucinations started to hover on their heads. Nitin was worried about this only because he knew there have been reports of people loosing their memories due to lack of oxygen.
After fighting with all odds the team reached Ali Bugyal. Everyone thank god to have reached another destination which looked like a distant dream. Budgyals are meadows or open spaces - grasslands in the hills which provide fodder the cattle and also scenic views to the tourists. Everyone, was relieved in Ali Bugyal and the beauty took the tiredness away. Must desired rest, two cup of teas, was enough to refresh the team and now Bedini Bugyal was just 5 kms away. The team was tired, bruised and fatigued but they had no choice but to move towards Bedini - because that was the place of the night halt that day
The team finally made up till Bedini Bugyal. Aah!!! THE STARS - as if they could be touched - as if they could be plucked and kept on earth - as if the world doesn't exist down the hill.
The temperature started dipping. It was already -5 and the chill could be felt on the tent roofs. The hard day had already taken its toll and everyone who came in the tent did not have the energy left to gaze the stars rather everyone fell dead.
The first casualty was Piyush who decided to return and no amount of inspiration could bring him back. The other got ready by 4 am to start the journey but Atul was another casualty as he also wanted to return - but after visiting Shiva and Latu Devta's temple the team moved ahead only to find out that some members were not willing to move ahead. The next destination was Nauchini Pathar. But this time it seemed that it was more like Rock climbing - the steepest climb uptill now. Finally, Mayank and Atul gave up. Mayank and Atul wanted to halt now or end the expedition as loss of breath was making them restless and they did not know how to react further. But still they carried on and the team reached Nauchini Pathar. Atul needed an oxygen cylinder but it wasn't available. He was left there with some medicines and tents and the team moved to Bugwasa.
It was like Do or Die situation - U can't runaway and u can't move ahead. But slowly the team kept their pace but Mayank started to react which no one wanted at this moment. Due to lack of oxygen he was loosing his memory and was trying to remember who he was ? his pulse started to drop but Nitin worked hard at this moment and brought him back to normal. But Mukul was in a bad condition now - he was feverish and also getting hallucinated. Nitin kept his cool and took both of them till Ganesha temple and rested there for a while& finally reached Bugwasa. But the didn't stop at Bugwasa and left for Roopkund.
But sometimes you must listen to the locals. As they moved ahead there was no road and it was too slippery to move ahead. Mukul lost his breath completely and it was like all over for them but God is merciful and after sometime he gained his consciousness and the team returned to Bugwasa. It was -6 that night. Next morning they hired a local guide and moved on but the road was too difficult to move ahead but the team as of now did not want to return empty handed. Finally, after one hour the team reached Roopkund - in a record 40 hours.
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